One such chef is Yousef Hanna, the owner of Magdalena an upscale restaurant on the banks of the Sea of Galilee in the village of Migdal. Now located in north-east Israel, Migdal was built on top of a Palestinian village depopulated in 1948 called al-Majdal. Stay at least 200m away from the whaling station – it’s filled Telling An Angry Farm Girl To Calm Down Works About As Well As Trying To Baptize A Cat Shirt with asbestos and the roofs could literally blow off warned expedition leader Nate Small, as we stepped gingerly out of ours.
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Zodiac and into the fizzing surf at Stromness Bay, South Georgia. At the far end of the bay, set against a mountain slope and surrounded by bog land, was a cluster of dilapidated, rusty, corrugated iron buildings. Huge sections of the roofs and walls were missing, and those that remained rattled incessantly in the near gale-force wind. It looked as if a natural disaster had struck. I stopped at an ‘Asbestos – Keep Out’ sign and peered through the encroaching mist.
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My extremities numb from the sub-zero conditions. It was a struggle to picture the station as a thriving community, yet a century ago Stromness was part of a highly profitable and brutal industry that transformed South Georgia into the whaling capital of the South Atlantic. I picked a careful route across the grey-pebble beach, eyeing warily the growling fur seals and slumbering elephant seals, their gargantuan bodies emitting a series of burps, bellows and rumbling bass notes.
Ernest Shackleton arrived in Stromness in 1916 following his epic 1,300km escape from Elephant Island, one of the South Shetland Islands that lie just north of the Antarctic Peninsula, after his ship was trapped and later crushed by pack ice. For the polar explorer, the whaling station represented civilization, but today nature is slowly Telling An Angry Farm Girl To Calm Down Works About As Well As Trying To Baptize A Cat Shirt reclaiming it. Fur seals sheltered beside a blubber cooker, king penguins waddled past disintegrating warehouses and skuas.