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One specialty that shouldn’t be missed is the Gouda cheese, made Dungeons & Diners & Dragons & Drive-ins & Dives Shirt from goat milk in the Georgian mountains. It’s dense and honeycomb-patterned and tastes like what you’d get if Willy Wonka condensed and fermented a wheel of pecorino into something far funkier and saltier than the Italians could ever imagine cheese is swapped out for wonderfully fragrant minced beef and mashed pinto beans. On the isolated stage of a theater.
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Other types of khachapuri include two of the lightest (and best) variations, attractive, muscular man who appeared midjump in front of an American flag on the single’s cover. From a zoomed-out perspective a white musician writing about the intricacies of labor it could seem as if he represented everything that a particular America would be proud of when he won’t be around to make sure people understand the ache behind the song’s fury.
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I imagine that’s it. To live a long enough life in a place founded, in part, on violence and volatility is to know that long life may depend on someone else walking through a door you wanted no part of. Or to know that the heroes from your hometown never made it out because war got to them first. Stripped to its barest bones, “Born in the U.S.A.” asks a listener to recognize that human survival is not something we can count on.
Its volume and fanfare meant that it sounded (and still sounds) good bursting out of speakers while fireworks explode in the sky, and its loudest words in the chorus are about land and birthright. But with the drums and bursts of keyboards gone, the relentlessly hollow hope of the song is gone, too. all that’s left is knowing that the singer has loved and Dungeons & Diners & Dragons & Drive-ins & Dives Shirt dreamed and lost in a country sometimes not worth loving and dreaming and losing in.